The new generation of cosmetic brands, often driven by content creators on TikTok, Instagram, YouTube, Amazon Live, Facebook, as well as Xiaohongshu, WeChat, Douyin and Kuaishou in China, is redefining the rules of the beauty industry.
By leveraging, live shopping DTC (Direct-to-Consumer) models, agile partnerships with international laboratories, and the power of digital virality, these brands are achieving rapid sales, sometimes within just a few days.
However, behind this digital success story lies a major strategic flaw: the failure to comply with local and international regulations, often overlooked in favour of speed to market.
Understanding country-specific cosmetic regulations
Every market has its own set of laws. In the United States, cosmetics are regulated by the FDA – Food and Drug Administration. In Canada, Health Canada oversees compliance through its natural health products and cosmetics regulations. In Asia, the rules vary by country: the NMPA (formerly CFDA) in China, the MHLW in Japan, the MFDS (formerly KFDA) in South Korea, the TFDA in Taiwan, the BPOM in Indonesia, and others. In Africa and the Middle East, the diversity of regulatory frameworks presents an even greater challenge for emerging brands.
Many young brands, manufactured in low-cost regions (China, India, Türkiye, Morocco, etc.), launch products without accounting for these requirements. This lack of compliance can lead to immediate market withdrawals, fines or legal proceedings, loss of public credibility amplified by social media, or even bans from selling on certain platforms.
Common regulatory failures seen globally
Product Information File (PIF): Many countries require a complete technical file demonstrating the product’s safety, composition, and stability.
Lack of regulatory testing: Claims such as « dermatologically tested » or « hypoallergenic » must be supported by scientific evidence. Tolerance and compatibility testing are expected, even from smaller brands.
Inadequate labelling and insufficient traceability: Each country has specific requirements regarding mandatory information, languages, symbols, PAO or expiry dates, batch numbers, and the address of the manufacturer or importer. A single omission can block an import.
Misleading marketing claims: Social platforms often encourage attractive but unverified messages. Promises like “instant lifting effect,” “instant brightening glow,” “natural botox alternative,” “safe during pregnancy,” or “suitable for babies” are frequently made without sufficient scientific proof. Regulatory bodies, in Europe and beyond, are stepping up enforcement and are no longer hesitant to penalise unjustified or misleading claims.
More views, more risk: the downside of digital success
Whether on TikTok, Instagram, YouTube, Amazon Live, Facebook, Xiaohongshu, WeChat, Douyin or Kuaishou, virality is a powerful sales driver, but the more visible a product becomes, the more exposed it is.
Virality can quickly attract the attention of local regulators, trigger a wave of negative consumer feedback, or provoke a reputational crisis that destroys a brand in hours.
Real-world red flags often observed
- Skin reactions reported on social media
- Consumer comments about hidden ingredients
- Doubts about the product’s true origin
- Fake labels (organic, cruelty-free, halal, vegan…) without verification
A brand may sell internationally via e-commerce platforms like Shopify or marketplaces, but each country has its own regulatory authorities, documentation, and compliance requirements.
A key takeaway for cosmetic brand founders
Creating a viral brand is a remarkable achievement. But turning that success into sustainable growth requires much more: rigorous regulatory compliance from the formulation stage, tailored regulatory support for each target market from the first international sales, and constant vigilance regarding claims made in marketing content, especially on high-impact platforms like TikTok, Instagram, Amazon Live, YouTube or Xiaohongshu.
Influence does not protect against the law
The cosmetics world evolves quickly, but the rules around safety, transparency, and compliance are more central than ever to building consumer trust and brand longevity. Being viral is not enough. A brand must also be legitimate, compliant, and responsible.
5 key questions to ask before launching a cosmetic product
Do I have a clear understanding of the regulatory requirements in each target market?
- Each country or region (EU, US, UK, Middle East, Asia, etc.) has its own rules concerning product safety, authorised ingredients, required testing and notifications.
Have I assembled a complete product dossier that meets local requirements?
- This includes the Product Information File (PIF), Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR), certificates of analysis, proof of safety, stability, efficacy, etc.
Are my marketing claims supported by reliable data?
- All claims (hydrating, anti-ageing, soothing, “safe for pregnant women”, etc.) must be backed by clinical tests or documented evidence.
Is my labelling compliant with the legislation in the country of sale?
- This includes local language, INCI list, mandatory legal notices, usage precautions, responsible person, batch numbers, shelf life, etc.
Can my manufacturer or subcontractor guarantee traceability, certificates, and required testing?
- Quality certifications (ISO, GMP), raw material traceability, certificates of origin, microbiological tests, patch tests, challenge tests, etc.
Laboratoire Orescience: partner of beauty brand creators, from formulation to international growth
Laboratoire Orescience, a manufacturer of French cosmetics, dermocosmetics and perfumery products, supports emerging brands and beauty content creators in Europe, the Middle East and China through every key stage of their development.
From bespoke formulation and manufacturing to product strategy, marketing, technical structuring and multi-market regulatory support (Europe, Asia, North America, Middle East), we help founders build original, effective and compliant beauty brands, backed by the excellence of Made in France.
Our mission: to turn viral ideas into global, credible and sustainable brands.
