In the development of high-performance hair care products, a detailed understanding of hair typology is a crucial step. The Andre Walker system, created by the American hairdresser famous for being Oprah Winfrey’s personal stylist and for crafting Halle Berry’s iconic pixie cut, has been used for several decades by professionals in the haircare and cosmetic industries. It enables the classification of hair based on texture level, from the straightest (type 1) to the coiliest (type 4). This tool remains particularly valuable for formulators, brands and marketing teams aiming to build an inclusive, targeted range that is genuinely suited to consumers’ specific needs.
It provides a structured framework for cosmetic haircare formulation, allowing for adjustments in textures, active ingredients and routines to suit the biological and behavioural specificities of each fibre type.
Understanding the origin and method of hair texture classification
Developed by American hairdresser Andre Walker in the 1990s, this classification groups hair into broad categories according to its natural shape: straight, wavy, curly, coiled or kinky. It uses an alphanumeric system ranging from 1A to 4C, with four main types (1 to 4) and three sub-categories (A to C) that indicate the intensity or definition of the texture. The number denotes the category (1 for straight, 2 for wavy, 3 for curly, 4 for coily/kinky), while the letter indicates the variation within that category.
Type 1: hair is perfectly straight, with no curve.
Type 2: characterized by S-shaped waves with varying definition.
Type 3: is characterised by visible curls, which may be loose or tight.
Type 4 : encompasses very tightly coiled or kinky hair, with curls often forming tight spirals or zigzag patterns, and a denser, more fragile and typically drier texture.
This system has the advantage of being simple, visual and immediately operational for segmenting a haircare range.
However, it goes beyond a mere aesthetic reading: hair texture directly influences product formulation, sensoriality and perceived performance.
How hair type guides hair care formulation ?
The natural shape of the hair has a strong influence on its response to care.
Very coily or kinky hair: these fibres tend to be drier, as scalp sebum cannot easily spread along the entire length. Furthermore, such hair is mechanically more fragile due to numerous points of torsion. It therefore requires enhanced nourishment, with conditioning agents, nourishing plant butters, and formulations that support moisture retention.
Straight or slightly wavy hair: these types can be easily weighed down by overly rich textures. They require light, non-occlusive formulas, enriched with volumising or strengthening actives, without a greasy finish. Textures should rinse easily and leave a clean feel.
Depending on the hair type targeted, the formulator within the Research & Development department adjusts the galenic structure, choice of oils or butters, viscosity level, sensorial profile, film-forming agents and mode of application (rinse-off, leave-in, co-wash, overnight treatment, etc.) to optimise both the product’s effectiveness and the user experience.
Understanding key parameters beyond texture to optimise formulation
Texture classification provides a useful basis for guiding formulation, but it is not sufficient to design truly personalised hair care. Other parameters must be considered for optimal adaptation.
Porosity: this refers to the hair’s ability to absorb and retain water. A highly porous fibre absorbs water quickly but retains it poorly, requiring formulas rich in humectants (which attract water) and natural occlusive agents to limit evaporation. Conversely, a low-porosity fibre needs products that penetrate effectively, sometimes with the help of heat or specific emulsifiers.
Hair thickness: this corresponds to the diameter of the hair fibre and influences the perceived sensoriality of the product. Fine hair will be quickly overwhelmed by rich formulas, while thick hair can tolerate denser, more concentrated textures or even layering routines.
Hair density: that is, the number of hairs per square centimetre, affects volume perception, the active load required in the formula and the optimal dosage of the final product.
A constantly evolving hair texture
It is important to remember that hair type is not fixed. Hair texture can evolve naturally over time, particularly in women. Hormonal changes, pregnancy, postpartum, medical treatments, chronic stress, menopause or even a change in haircare routine can significantly alter the structure of the hair.
Curls may loosen, waves may appear during adolescence, or fibres may become more fragile and brittle with age. These evolutions must be anticipated during formulation, for instance by offering progressive routines, corrective treatments or products specifically adapted to transitional hair.
Beyond the Andre Walker system: towards more comprehensive approaches
The Andre Walker classification remains widely used by both brands and consumers. It provides a clear framework for segmenting a range, structuring a diagnosis or guiding product communication. However, it does have certain limitations, as it does not account for key factors such as porosity, environmental conditions, lipid composition or cultural haircare practices.
New approaches have therefore emerged.
The LOIS system (Legacy, Origin, Identity, Structure), for example, combines genetic heritage, ethnic origin, cultural identity and actual fibre structure. Other more scientific methods rely on measuring curvature angle, diameter, damage level or hydration rate to better adapt formulas to the hair’s biological reality.
At Laboratoire Orescience, in the development and formulation of haircare products, we favour a multi-criteria approach that combines texture, porosity, environment (humidity, temperature, UV exposure), intended use (styling, deep care, maintenance), application frequency and sensorial expectations. This in-depth analysis makes it possible to create products that are precisely tailored to real needs, both physiological and cultural.
The Andre Walker system remains a relevant tool for understanding hair diversity and structuring an inclusive range. It offers an effective first segmentation, useful in both marketing and product development. However, to formulate truly appropriate care, this base must be complemented by a more advanced technical reading of the hair fibre and its associated practices.
Laboratoire Orescience has the privilege of supporting recognised brands and key players in the hair industry in the development and formulation of tailor-made haircare products. Operating within a global industry that embraces diverse cultures and hair typologies, our approach, rooted in scientific expertise, aims to design products tailored to each hair type, combining performance, safety and respect for cultural diversity. For us, understanding the nature of hair is the essential key to delivering innovative, effective and sustainable formulations.
