As cosmetic innovation increasingly aligns with both high standards and growing consumer consciousness, brands now face a critical challenge: to develop skincare that is not only effective and safe, but also in tune with evolving expectations around naturality, transparency, and simplicity. Consumers are no longer seeking just visible results, they demand products that reflect their values, integrated into streamlined routines without compromise or unnecessary embellishments.
Spicules are natural micro-needles made of silica, extracted from freshwater sponges of the Spongilla genus. Invisible to the naked eye once integrated into a formula, they act through simple mechanical interaction with the epidermis. This physical action triggers localised micro-stimulation, enhancing skin microcirculation, promoting cell renewal, and temporarily increasing the permeability of the skin barrier. The result is improved absorption of topical actives without any chemical alteration to the skin. Spicules are thus used as dermo-stimulating vectors in gentle exfoliating treatments or booster formulas, in a way that respects the skin’s physiology.
This mechanism of action closely resembles that of microneedling, which has led to spicules being dubbed “liquid microneedling” in some communications. Unlike instrumental techniques, this technology belongs to a non-invasive cosmetic approach, delivering physiological skin stimulation through simple topical application, without disrupting the skin barrier. It offers a compelling combination of efficacy and tolerance, suitable for daily use.
When paired with active ingredients such as niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, or peptides, spicules act as biological amplifiers. By increasing the bioavailability of formulated ingredients, they allow for optimised efficacy without necessarily raising concentrations. This natural transdermal delivery system makes them a particularly valuable asset in clean, high-performance, skin-friendly formulation strategies.
An Innovation Lever for Brands
Spicules present exciting opportunities for developing hybrid skincare products at the intersection of professional dermocosmetics and at-home use. Their mechanical action, combined with good tolerance on healthy skin, allows for the formulation of corrective or renewing products aimed at boosting radiance, refining skin texture, evening out tone, or addressing early signs of ageing.
Their galenic adaptability is a major advantage in formulation: daily-use fluid serums, weekly resurfacing masks, activating gels, or pre-treatment skincare. Thanks to their stable, insoluble structure, spicules can be incorporated into aqueous or lightly emulsified bases. This technical versatility makes them a differentiating tool for developing high-value active formulations.
Sensory stimulation that serves efficacy
Application of spicules induces a transient tingling or stimulating sensation on the skin, caused by their direct mechanical interaction with the stratum corneum. This is due to their sharp-edged structure, which locally activates superficial nerve receptors without causing deep inflammatory responses.
On healthy skin, this sensory activation is generally well tolerated and often perceived as a marker of immediate efficacy. It enhances the user experience and highlights the technical nature of the product, without resorting to potentially irritating chemical agents.
When finely dosed and integrated into a suitable texture, this sensory stimulation becomes a strategic differentiator for brands positioned in demanding segments: clean beauty, skin-tech, or new-generation dermocosmetic care.
A critical R&D approach for controlled integration
Incorporating spicules into an active cosmetic formula raises complex challenges around stability, sensoriality, and skin compatibility, requiring advanced formulation expertise.
Every technical parameter, choice of actives, pH adjustment, texture selection, targeted skin profile, must be carefully optimised. Poor dispersion can compromise application comfort, while unsuitable concentrations can affect skin tolerance. This is why formulating this type of product calls for in-depth galenic know-how and a solid understanding of European regulatory requirements.
It is at this critical stage that Laboratoire Orescience and its R&D team provide full support: sourcing of raw materials, tailor-made cosmetic and dermocosmetic formulation, stability testing, sensory evaluation, and compliance with international regulatory constraints.
A tailor-made approach to support your brand
At Laboratoire Orescience, every development project is shaped by a bespoke strategy, aligned with your brand’s DNA. From the brief definition to industrial-scale production, we provide full-service support, including formulation, technical validation, marketing assistance, and regulatory compliance (EU and international), to ensure fast, secure, and fully aligned market delivery.
Looking to integrate spicules into a new product line or explore their potential in an active skincare treatment?
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