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Brazilian hair straightening is a popular method to achieve sleek, shiny, and frizz-free hair. However, the use of glyoxylic acid, a controversial ingredient, is raising growing concerns.
Why is this smoothing agent now under health scrutiny? What alternatives should be considered to combine efficacy and safety?
Let’s explore the key points.
Why is glyoxylic acid controversial?
Glyoxylic acid is widely used in hair straightening products for its smoothing properties. It works by temporarily altering the hair structure to reduce curls and frizz. However, its potential toxicity, particularly when inhaled or applied to damaged skin, has drawn the attention of French health authorities, including Anses and the DGCCRF.
These institutions warn of its potential renal toxicity, paving the way for regulatory reviews of its use in cosmetics.
What are the risks of glyoxylic acid?
Since the beginning of 2024, several cases of acute kidney failure have been reported in France, all directly linked to the use of products containing glyoxylic acid.
Symptoms to watch for:
Abdominal or lower back pain
Nausea and vomiting
If these symptoms appear after using a straightening product, it is crucial to consult a doctor or contact a poison control centre, informing healthcare professionals about the exposure.
What are the safe alternatives for Brazilian hair straightening?
To avoid the risks, it is advisable to turn to natural or scientifically validated formulations. Here are safe and effective options:
Tannic acid: natural and long-lasting
Tannic acid is a compound extracted from plants such as oak or sequoia. Known for its antioxidant properties, it forms semi-permanent bonds with keratin, smoothing the hair while maintaining its integrity.
Benefits:
Compatible with clean beauty formulations
Long-lasting smoothing effect without compromising safety
Cysteamine HCL: effective and gentle
Cysteamine HCL is an amino acid derived from cysteine, naturally found in keratin. Unlike harsh chemical agents, it gently relaxes disulfide bonds, reducing curls without damaging the hair.
Benefits:
Provides a smoothing effect similar to glyoxylic acid
Respects the hair fibre while offering revitalised texture
Thermo-active polymers: protection and smoothing
These polymers activate with heat to form a protective film around the hair fibre.
Key properties:
Seals cuticles to reduce frizz
Protects hair from heat damage caused by styling
Delivers a shiny, long-lasting smoothing effect
Botanical enzymes: natural and gentle
Extracted from plants such as bromelain (pineapple) or papain (papaya), these enzymes naturally soften the hair, making it easier to straighten.
Benefits:
Suitable for all hair types
Gentle on the scalp due to their non-irritating properties
Moving towards more respectful solutions
While glyoxylic acid represented a significant breakthrough in the field of hair straightening products, its health risks encourage the exploration of safer alternatives. Active ingredients such as tannic acid, cysteamine hcl, and thermo-active polymers offer remarkable smoothing results while safeguarding well-being.
By prioritising products that meet clean beauty standards, it is possible to achieve performance, safety, and peace of mind.
Laboratoire Orescience supports you with innovative hair care solutions and tailor-made cosmetic formulations designed to anticipate and respond to tomorrow’s trends.
