Cosmetic evaluations and safety tests

In the field of cosmetics, stringent regulations govern the formulation and development of products to ensure their total safety when they are put on the market. Before being marketed, a cosmetic product undergoes various tests and evaluations.

The development of a cosmetic product, its safety and stability require numerous preliminary evaluations and an in-depth analysis of the biological environment on which it will act.

As the person responsible for marketing your cosmetic product, your priority is to ensure consumer safety. It is therefore essential that your cosmetic product presents no danger to the user under normal conditions of use, as well as under unusual but foreseeable conditions.

The cosmetic evaluation of the product includes assessing its safety for human health, evaluating the toxicity of the ingredients and possibly carrying out additional tests to confirm the claims made.

The safety assessment is carried out by a qualified expert, such as a  toxicologist or holder of a diploma specified by regulations. It is important to note that agencies nationale de sécurité du médicament et des produits de Santé can request the withdrawal of a product from the market at any time if it is considered dangerous to human health, hence the importance of this evaluation phase. There are three categories of tests.

Product shelf-life tests are designed to assess the product’s ability to be preserved effectively over time. A key parameter in these tests is the « Challenge Test ».

The challenge test aims to assess the performance of the preservatives present in the product. A certain concentration of micro-organisms is injected into the formula. The assessment focuses on their decline over time, over a defined period, in order to evaluate the effectiveness of the preservative system present in the cosmetic formula.

To ensure stability and adequate protection of the product over time, the formula must pass a challenge test combined with a stability test.

The Stability Test: Studying product durability (DLU / PAO)

The Challenge Test, while essential, is not sufficient to determine product durability. In general, an accelerated aging study is carried out to assess product integrity according to a number of relevant criteria, depending on the product.

Samples are then taken to monitor various parameters such as bacterial growth, pH evolution, viscosity, odor, color, etc.

Product safety tests:

The skin irritation test (Patch test) is considered one of the key tests in contact dermatology, enabling us to study skin tolerance. It consists of a single application of the product, generally for 24 to 48 hours, to several volunteers, under an occlusive or semi-occlusive patch applied to the arm or back. Any skin reactions are assessed when the patch is removed, under the supervision of a healthcare professional or dermatologist.

The eye tolerance test is carried out on formulas intended for application around the eyes or eyelashes, as well as on products likely to come into contact with the eyes. Facial cleansers, shampoos and face masks are among the products concerned by this test.

The sensitization test, known as HRIPT (« Human Repeat Insult Patch Test ») or RIPT (« Repeat Insult Patch Test »), is generally carried out on a group of 50, 100 or 200 volunteers. They repeatedly apply patches containing the product in question to their back skin over a period of 6 weeks. Any skin reactions are observed, noted and interpreted by a dermatologist, to confirm whether or not the product is allergenic. These tests also determine whether the product can be described as « hypoallergenic ».

The phototoxicity test studies the product’s phototoxic potential. Typically, cells are treated in vitro with the product, then the responses obtained after exposure or non-exposure to UVA light are compared.

Product efficacy tests are carried out to highlight the marketing properties of the cosmetic product, its real efficacy and to justify the claims made, such as its moisturizing, anti-aging, firming, tightening, toning, slimming effect, etc.

In conclusion, cosmetic evaluations and safety tests are at the heart of our commitment to the quality and efficacy of our cosmetic formulas. Thanks to these rigorous assessments, we can guarantee you safe, effective cosmetics that comply with European and international regulatory standards.

Our cosmetic formulas have been rigorously evaluated to meet the needs of all skin types, including the most sensitive areas.

We are proud to offer you visible and satisfying results thanks to our innovative cosmetic formulas.

« Every formulation must be able to prove its efficacy »

David Brocheriou, President of Laboratoire Orescience

Safety, performance and innovation are at the heart of our approach.

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